Malama o ka 'Aina

Pohoiki is 4 miles (as crows fly) - but the meander through mango trees, papaya fields and organic farms takes 15 min

Life on the 'wild side' on the Big Island -- no high rise condos, no fancy hotels or 4-lane highways. In fact getting down to the ocean is part one-way because no one will be cutting down an old mango tree! We think we are the luckiest folks.

We are fortunate also for great activities in our local association facilities and that a lovely local educator offers weekly classes in Hawaiian language and culture here in our small subdivision called Leilani Estates.

We have long been interested in indigenous cultures and traditions, and it was important to us that we learn about the values of traditional Hawaiians. A few words specifically address some of the depth of the Hawaiian language..

kuleana - responsibility and commitment
malama - caring for 
'aina - the land (not as "land ownership" 
but in relationship with all aspects of the environment

Some of our nearby friends and neighbors have lived here for 25-30 years and we feel very lucky to have found them and be included in our Leilani Ohana (extended family.) Phil joins other volunteers with weed whacker and rakes to join a group of local citizens who care for our local park and swimming area. By doing regular weed whacking along the park, they are helping to eliminate the use of pesticides along our local shoreline.

Even an I write this blog entry on 6/27 we had two small earthquakes last night just off the coast in this area -- once again a reminder that our adventure here is at the grace of mighty forces -- it is a vital, living land like no other we have ever encountered.

Please enjoy watching  this very short video. The first section is of of the area where the volunteers work, and near the end (about a 1/2 mile) is of our favorite swimming spots. Both are only a few minutes from our house. -- 
Video of Pohoiki Bay

Surprises Everyday!

Six years ago we lived in Humboldt County -- our house (built in 1860's) was paid off, our 22-year old gallery was doing well with a staff of 4-5 who helped to cover seven days a week - 12 hours a day.  We were busy and had actually given very little thought to what retirement might mean or look like. It took only one visit to the Big Island to conceive of a whole new adventure -- retirement in Hawaii!

Now, this many years later, we continue the learning curve that living in rural Puna means, and we are continually surprised at all we are discovering and learning. Sometimes it's the simplest things that offer the most surprise, and any day holds the potential discovery of something new and unexpected.



Such was the case today which began with a drive around the 'hood, following a few 'garage sale' signs. But even before we left the driveway, we were delighted to find that the bright orange Jade Vine we planted only a few months ago was loaded with bright (BRIGHT) orange blooms. But, stepping over an ohia log to get a closer look, we found another bloom -- the "Devil's Trumpet" -- the  plant itself is less than 12" high but has two open blooms and three more pending.

Off for our neighborhood drive, we circled around the block to visit one of the newest neighbors who had offered to give us some scraps of heavy concrete fence materials for use in the garden and then to an estate sale where we found yet another treasure -- a hippopotamus -- that has a water spout in his mouth -- and which we think will be a great feature to our (slowly) developing lava pond.

Spirit of the Mo'o

Reptiles and serpents of all shapes and sizes have been my favorite beings since I was a little girl. I was enamored with snakes in rural Oregon; I found it delightfully devious to put them in my teachers’ desks.

As a kid, I remember reading about mythological flying creatures in my Child Craft Encyclopedia. China's flying serpents-dragons were in the oldest writings of that culture. India's "Ramayana" describes humans and their "serpent-god" ancestors, and African myths refer to dragon-like beings who brought civilization to humankind. Ancient texts from Sumer (3000 BC) describe sapient, fiery, flying serpents. There are numerous other examples from Japan, China, Australia, etc. My all time favorite has long been Quetzalcoatl of Meso-American literature. Reading Dragonriders of Pern by Anne McCaffrey as a young adult was also influential.

Papermache (old phonebook) over chicken wire -- the beginning.

When we bought our retirement property in the Puna District on the Big Island of Hawaii (2012), I drew out a possible design along our long driveway for landscaping -- that, not surprising, included an aptly descriptive (and prophetic?) title, "Path of the Serpent."

"So," he asked, "do I get wings?"

In Hawaiian mythology the Mo'o are the most mysterious creatures found in some of the oldest stories and are associated with a deep ancient magic. Citing from an article by Shannon Wianecki (Maui No Ka 'Oi Magazine) Mo'o possess profound powers, are omniscient and are also shape-shifting beings who guard and protect fresh water pools. Most Mo'o are female, but a fierce Mo'o on Moloka'i is a male protector..

According to language experts, "the word mo'o" also refers to spine and a succession or lineage, and a mo'oleo is a story...a progression of words strung together like a vertebrae.

Recently while clearing a large section of overgrown jungle area of invasive shrubs, weeds and vines, we discovered a rather interesting deep hole (puka) in the lava that we are now shaping to become a fountain/pond feature -- and what could be more appropriate to guard it -- a six-foot long Mo'o, who now takes up residence in our spacious open-air art studio. A few days ago while I was sculpting his face, he asked if he was going to have wings which prompted a significant change in design -- but who is going to say "no" to a Mo'o...not me! (As the water feature and the Mo'o develop, we will post new pictures.)

"The Sacred Spine" - Shannon Wianecki; "Wise folks don't mess with Mo'o" - Bob Krauss; "Mo'o Dragons of Hawai'i" - Mike Limatoc, "Flying Serpents and Dragons" - R. A. Boulay

Puppies in my Tummy!

"I'I Lani" ( ee-ee lani) - with very full belly

Today we made the important trek into Hilo for an x-ray of I'I Lani's belly to hopefully confirm how many puppies she will whelp in just a couple weeks. Sometimes the mom's bones partially hide the tiny skeletons of the puppies inside, but it looks like there are four. That's a perfect number for such a little girl. Her Hawaiian name, I'I Lani, means midget from heaven -- and she is!!

Delivery of puppies (whelping) should take place on June 30 (give or take a day or two). We are "keeping it all in the family" so to speak -- here's a photo of Lani with her mom, Reba (in back) who has some real experience to be a "mid-wife" and "tutu" for the new batch. Lani was from Reba's very last batch of pups.

Today we set up her nursery area so she can begin to feel emotionally comfortable there. Until then, there's not much to do -- and even after the pups are born, she will take care of them for the first four weeks when they really begin to start waddling around. Of course we will include a few pictures when that all happens. (FYI: All puppies are already spoken for, in case you were wondering.)

Visitors at Luana Ohana

Not everything that happens in our lives is as exciting as a walk out to see lava pouring miles down the hillside and into the ocean (our last post.) After four and a half years, we are still discovering and delighting in retirement. By the way, the Hawaiian word LUANA (our street name) has a very rich and appropriate meaning to us especially as it relates to our retirement!

LUANA: to be at leisure, to enjoy pleasant surroundings and associates, to live in comfort and ease, to enjoy onesself.    "E luana wale ana no" (Just enjoying ourselves)

Here's a photo of our front porch, with our beautiful gong (with the symbol for water) from Many Hands Gallery in Eureka.

Next to the porch is a dense bed of tropical plants that has some flowering spiral ti plants that look like aliens!!



Along the outside wall by the porch is an ornamental flowering passion vine that is home to dozens of geckos who find curious places to artfully hang out. (One in the mouth of the 'green man' sculpture, another on the head of the goddess.)

There's no way you can effectively keep them out of the house, but they are welcome guests because they eat small spiders and other insects -- especially in the kitchen. Last is an artfully-adapted photo I took in the kitchen with gecko silhouetted from light from the window over the sink.

Lava Hike

Lunel - nose into the trade winds, ready for hike

Shortly after Hurricane Iselle hit us, in the summer of 2014, lava from nearby Pu'u O'o vent began to flow directly toward our subdivision just south of Pahoa Village. At that time our focus was survival and safety and everyone was hugely relieved when, just a few yards before dividing Pahoa in half, the flow stopped, and began to flow toward the ocean again, to the south of Kalapana. Whew! (click any photo for bigger view)

Huge section of lava shelf fell off in December, and continues to crumble

Here is the newly revised four-mile trail out to view

After Lunel's knee injury in 2015, surgery and following recovery, we were not much interested in a dangerous hike out to where lava was flowing into the ocean. We heard wonderful stories about it from friends and neighbors. Finally, this week, at the invitation of a friend, and because shuttles are available for part of the trek, it seemed the right time.

Photo by Leigh Hilbert -- looking up the pali -- toward the Pu'u O'o vent -- flowing from Kilauea Volcano

Since the flow path returned to the ocean, several large lava "shelves" have broken off and fallen into the ocean, creating danger for hikers resulting in re-routing for site seers. It is a job the park services and county take very seriously. While bikes are available, it seemed smart to take a shuttle out to the drop off point where the hike began. From there it was over four miles out (one-way) to see the flow.
Most people had already been out during the day and now were returning -- wearing headlamps or riding well lit bicycles. Very few people were going out, maybe because it was dark, but we wanted to take full advantage of the dusk-to-dark ambiance for full impact.

Once there, we had the option of turning right to follow the glowing river up the pali (cliffs) or left toward the ocean. We joined small groups of people clustered around, quietly humbled at the raw power as we watched streams of lava pour into the sea. Knowing we faced the return four-mile hike, we did not linger long and were surprised by a gentle rain shower as we began the trek back. We have to give a shout out to Kalapana Cultural Tours who provide a variety of safe, informative services. Mahalo especially to Dwayne!

The OBAMA FISH!

Recently a new BASSLET fish was discovered in the Northwest Hawaiian Islands Marine National Monument -- and it has been named for President Obama -- Tosanoides Obama.

In 2006 President Bush set aside about 140,000 square miles of marine national monument that was later expanded by President Obama in 2016.

*Papahanaumokuakea is the name of the place where this newly discovered fish lives, but don't let that long name intimidate you. Many long Hawaiian words are actually made up of smaller words, so here it is broken down.

PAPA - Earth Mother --HANAU - Birth
MOKU - Island  - AKEA - Sky/Father

It "sounds like this" pa-pa-hah-now-mo-koo-ah-keh-ah, and translated it describes a fertile woman giving birth to a wide stretch of islands beneath a benevolent father sky.

The political side to this issue relates to the fact that Trump is expected soon to issue an executive order repealing the Obama administration’s moratorium on new federal land leases for coal mining. Trump appointee, Secretary of the Interior, Ryan Zinke, is responsible for those leases, and has come out strongly against Obama’s moratorium.  (source thehill.com) At his confirmation hearing, Zinke endorsed long-held Republican policies like allowing more oil and natural gas drilling.

Carved from Koa - approx 7-8" -- $29

But he also came out strongly in favor of conservation priorities that Democrats hold dear, and promised to oppose large-scale transfers of federal land to state or private interests. This apparent commitment helped secure the necessary Democrat votes for his confirmation.  If you would like to express your opinion on retaining these federal protected lands, you can contact the Department of the Interior: feedback@ios.doi.gov 

Carved from Ironwood, hand tinted, approx 10-11 -$50

Of course Phil has already created the design for an OBAMA FISH and will craft them from Koa (sample) adding to his collection of hand-carved Hawaiian Reef Fish. He is also considering doing a hand tinted version like the one I GOT!!! for Mother's Day (made from Big Island Ironwood.)
If you would like your own OBAMA FISH, just email us:  haysmer@sonic.net

** Links to additional info on the Papahanaumokuekea National Monument
National Geographic article
Washington Post - Obama Fish

The Humboldt/Hawaii Connection

Mahalo for Alex Grey's art:  alexgrey.com

No, this is not an ancient island goddess, but it does reflect one of the many connections between Humboldt County California and the Big Island. We know folks from both places who apparently wave to each other while taking opposing flights seeking jobs in the industry.

Well, now it looks like we found yet another interesting Hawaii/Humboldt connection through the purchase of a book that Phil wanted for his birthday. Hawaiian Yesterdays is a collection of over 500 historical photographs taken by Ray Jerome Baker. Baker was an early 20^th century photographer who first came to Eureka in 1904.  His first studio was a temporary tent on E Street but the wet winter forced him to establish a permanent studio at the corner of E and 5^th. (Our gallery of 22 years was at the corner of F and 2nd.)  

Baker’s extensive photo collection of Humboldt County is now in the collection of Humboldt State University.  He became friends with Jack London who visited Eureka often and who also encouraged Baker to visit Hawaii. Baker and his wife Edith (who hand tinted his color photos) visited the Hawaiian Islands in 1908 – they loved it and after staying for several months they returned to Eureka, closed the studio, packed up and made the permanent move to Hawaii.  (This reminded us of our buying a house in Puna while on vacation…and moving to the Big Island one year later!!)

Big Island: Woman weaving lauhala into hat( 1915)

“Baker’s camera caught everything around him: the people, places and events …of the Hawaiian people and their vanishing lifestyles, members of various ethnic groups, aerial landscapes, historical sites and native flora." (from flyleaf of book)

We both expect to spend many hours pouring over this extensive collection. It helps us appreciate the cultural renaissance here in Hawai'i with deep roots in the traditions of the past and a forward-looking vision for the future through the revitalization of language, dance and cultural traditions.

Baker has a room dedicated to his photography at Oahu's Bishop Museum - "The Ray Jerome Baker room." To learn more about Baker and his lengthy collection of books and published articles: LINK to Jerome Baker

Tubes and Craters and Cones -- OH MY!!

Real place, real people, but photoshoped artistry

The District of Puna (where we live on the Big Island) is riddled with volcanic features and activity. If you are a regular blog follower, you’ve already read several entries about Kilauea’s Pu’u O’o vent, flowing continuously for over 30 years. But flowing lava is just part of the volcanic story. ("click" on any image for bigger view.)

For example, the entire district has massive, hollow, miles-long lava tubes running underground. Access to these happens when a layer collapses forming a puka (hole) in the surface. They may be great for spelunkers but are not so great for stray pets…some return, but some never find their way back home. Our friends across the street had a puka so large they had to put a chain link fence around it to keep their dogs safe!

Map shows our house and our two friends houses (notice Geothermal Plant -- on the edge of another big crater

A recent Easter Party with friends prompted this blog entry and a little talk-story about craters within walking distance from us. Although there are many such, we are talking about three that are about 2-3 miles from our house in Leilani Estates Subdivision. Our friends live about a mile due east from us where the yard in front of their house features a currently operating steam vent. We joke that at least they have the option of building a sweat lodge or a unit that will produce poached eggs. If you look at the map you can see there are craters directly behind them.

Google Earth closer up - our house on left - friends' houses closer to craters

Another friend, another mile east, actually built his house on the edge of a crater. We have visited his house and walked along the edge of this crater, which at its widest is about 100 m. Scientists believe that this crater, called Pu`ulena Crater (Yellow Hill,) was formed by the collapse of a series of three smaller pit craters with steam-driven explosive eruptions that blanketed the area with rock debris as thick as 20 m.

As the two craters on either end of Pu’ulena are Kahuwai (Water Master) and Pawai (Water Container) it is further thought that an explosive eruption probably took place when ascending magma encountered perched groundwater or a hydrothermal reservoir. After this event the ground may have collapsed due to the subsequent withdrawal of magma forming what is now an elongated crater. This explosive activity occurred 450-700 years ago. (Above info gleaned from variety of sources including: USGS, Hawaii Dept of Land and Natural Resources, Hawaii Volcano HVO Hawaii Volcano Observatory, Google Earth.

This week -- Hawaiian GEOMETRY!

We had a couple projects this week that turned out well for "first-timers" on both counts. After moving to Pahoa on the Big Island, we planted bananas -- seems everyone does. We just had our first harvest! It took us a while to figure out why this particular banana is so much greener and bigger than the others -- but we finally realized it is because it is only a few feet from our compost bins! 

Here's a photo of Puna Harvester Phil and another that illustrates how bananas (like many many plants on the island) grow in a spiral! Spirals are prevalent throughout nature and artistically used in ethnic, religion and mythology around the world to represent the universal pattern of growth and evolution. The spiral represents eternity and continuity, rebirth, and the eternal. 

So THERE's our SPIRALS... and now on to our CIRCLES and SQUARES

Phil wasn't the only one having fun with geometry. Lunel (with the help of our two corgi girls (Reba and Lani) undertook to create a cover for our hot tub. It was an idea that arrived (as many do) at 3am, so despite some of the details being a little unclear, it was drawn out first. We bought a 6 x 8 foot length of bamboo fencing. After tracing the circle on it, each bamboo piece had to be cut by hand. There was fabric left from making our beautiful swag ceiling in the lanai, to hem and use to weave across the bamboo. Last, the rough edges were sanded, it was rolled out onto the round hot tub.  Hmmmm...so are triangles next?

Easter -- "Puna Style"

Phil's feather boa, wild turkey claw and baby.

Happy Easter -- New life and rising from the dead were themes we chose for our Easter Bonnets this year.

Lunel's "life and death" themed hat

Last year at our annual "white elephant" gift exchange on Christmas Eve, Phil's exchange gift was a lovely feather boa...perfect for re-purposing at Easter! Lunel simply used what was out laying around the studio to decorate, but couldn't resist her usual bemusing play with iconic image of life and death.

So, later we will be gathering with lots of our friends and neighbors (our ohana) for a potluck, talk-story, games, music and....Easter hat competition. We'll be meeting at friends Jane and Doug who have been building their house here in Leilani, just a few blocks from our house.

A Zen Riddle

Giving Yellow a Bad Rap!!

Is it possible to yell-o quietly?

For well over a year now, we have been convinced that the colors YELLOW and ORANGE have been getting a bad rap.  Yellow has turned into "yelling" and Orange feels like "rage" And, it has only gotten worse since the end of 2016. We have decided to counteract the negative influence of our Cheeto-Headed President with our own personal beautification campaign here in Puna on the Big Island of Hawaii.

Us in the Mellow Yellow Submarine

Although there are admittedly more serious ways to engage politically (which we encourage,) this week we chose simply to focus on the BEAUTY of YELLOW and ORANGE that we have planted in our yard. As we have created beds around the property, for whatever reason (and sometimes for none at all) each of them has a name.

"Cosmic Dancer" is in the upper right corner

For example, we have the "Valentine Bed" because we built it together on Valentines day a couple years ago. There is a "Pink Bed" that began primarily with pink flowers, but since has been enlivened by other colors as well. There is the "Monarch Bed," the "Bromeliad Hill, "The Terraces," and even one named "Kate's Bed" because it was planted mostly by our friend and yard helper, Kate.


Until recently, there was a bed with no name -- until, that is, the hibiscus we planted there went into full bloom along with all the other yellows and oranges that are featured there. The name of this hybrid hibiscus is "Cosmic Dancer" and thus the name "Cosmic Dancer Bed."

We have two YELLOW ohia trees in our yard and one surprised us last week by bursting out with little yellow
pom-poms all over it. Despite the fact that we have had over 20 of our forest ohia trees die in three years, many are still alive and healthy, so this lovely, rare yellow ohia is a particular joy.